Xiahe: Labrang temple. Gansu Summer 2023

After arriving in the town of Xiahe (number 3 on the map), I checked into my hotel and then went for a wander about. I immediately did not like the place but did my best not to judge based on first impressions. Everything was brand new and in the characteristic "China trying to be old/traditional" generic style. It's a shame how gentrified and inauthentic tourist and places of interest in China have become, especially given

how far away from the big cities I was at the time. Every "old town" I have been to in recent years were all built within the last five years. It's so disappointing nowadays that I don't bother going to them anymore. I was lucky to see many of these places back when they were still interesting and actually had a slight feel of authenticity about them. 

The main attraction in this part of the province is Labrang Monastery which both Tim and Harry had previously recommended. The town was basically a car park and a load of restaurants surrounding the monastery and as so was quite expensive and a little unpleasant. 

Every restaurant was huge and designed for big groups of people traveling and eating together, yet more evidence of the recent change in domestic travel habits. It was immediately difficult to find somewhere that would allow one person to order there. 

Not loving town I decided to leave a day early and booked a car for the follow afternoon so I could visit the monastary in the next morning. 

Another hangover from COVID is that everything is cashless and most places you have to buy tickets on an app. I am yet to find one that will allow foreigners to buy tickets so there is always a bit more hassle for me before we finally work it out. In this case, I was taken to the police office and they ended up just taking some money from me and handing me a ticket. I have no faith it was at all official but it worked. Sometimes that's what you have to do in China. 

Once inside, I was shocked by how commercial the place was. The monks were selling cigarettes and charging people to pose with them for pictures. Hundreds of people were with professional photographers whilst being in "traditional clothing" so that they could take picture. As a result, it was impossible to stand anywhere without being shouted at for being in someone's picture. It was amazingly stressful and really quite unpleasant. 

Labrang monastery is the largest Buddhist temple in the country and was a complete zoo. So different from the equally busy Langmusi temple. 

Sadly this part of my trip turned out to be a complete bust from start to finish but that is the risk you take sometimes. Tim and Harry both expressed their shock and disappointment at how much it has changed. 

Hopefully the local government can step in and try to protect the area before the damage is irreversible.