Chaka Salt Plains: Qinghai Summer 2023

 

We left the lake after a windy and cold fifteen minutes and set off for the main event. Chaka Salt Lake!

The lake is about 300 km from Xining (number 4 on the map) and has only recently been opened to foreigners. Lots of Qinghai is blocked to foreign travelers for who knows what reason so there it is exciting that I could finally make it here. 

When we arrived, the weather was still a bit wet so my driver recommended I wait half hour and get some food, if it had not started to clear up, we would give up and I would go home very disappointed. 

Luckily for me, the rain stopped and the clouds began to clear so I went and bought tickets for the park

before I changed my mind. Once again buying tickets was amazingly complicated and I am still not convinced I actually bought and paid for the right thing but eventually I got on the bus to the park entrance. From the entrance there were a few different routes available. I chose the train and made my way to the tracks. As it had been raining earlier, I was quite lucky that I managed to beat the majority of the lines. Only had to queue for a few minutes before getting the train all the way to the end of the track, (the furthest point) so that I could walk back. 

I have a soft spot for trains so all of the tracks and old train cars made for a fun and very picturesque photo spot. The plains still supply huge amounts of salt and is still being used today. Google let me down when trying to find out exactly how much. 

The train track is about 1.5 kilometers long and heads right out into the middle of the plains. From the end point you can walk back along the track or do as many other people were doing and rend wells

to walk back through the water. I decided to stay on the path as there was basically no-one on it and i didn't fancy wading back even though it wasn't deep. 

The salt made the lake look like it was covered in snow and the shallow water made the water into a giant natural mirror. Often Chaka Lake is referred to as a sky mirror and it is easy to see why. 

As far as I am aware, the only other place to see something like this is in Bolivia and even then only a few months of the year. This place is granted much smaller and very Chinese tourist destination, but it is still incredibly beautiful. 

Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Lake: Qinghai Summer 2023

My reason for finally making it to Xining (number 4 on the map) is to visit the giant Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Plains. Of the two, the salt lake I have been trying to get to see for as long as I can remember.

Once again, the only way to see these places is to drive, so once again I found a driver and disappeared into the distance for the day. The weather to the lake was pretty miserable and so became a very fast stop at a small area to stand on the shore as it rained. Luckily for me, the drive was impressive and the rain did ease off. 

Had the weather been a little nicer I could have taken a boat trip but honest, a lake is a lake and this was not a hugely impressive one. The drive from the hotel to the lake was about 3 hours and for the most part was a pleasant and comfortable journey. My driver was pleasant albeit an aggressive driver, but given my latest experience he was fine. All I had to do was sit back and relax and try not to use the imaginary break too much. 

Xiahe (Gansu) to Xining (Qinghai): The journey from hell! Summer Qinghai 2023

After a truly disappointing time in Xiahe (number 3 on the map) I decided to just cut my loses and get

across to Xining (number 4 on the map) a day early. 

Again the only way to do this was to find a car and so I was put in touch with a local driver who agreed to drive me the 6 hours into the neighbouring province. This sadly was another unlucky break as the woman who turned up did so with her 5 year old kid in the back. I don't mind kids but this one was rough to be around, especially for a 6 hour drive over the mountains. She was a rude and dangerous driver and made the journey very very unpleasant. I sent a complaint to the company when I arrived. Something I have never done before. Drivers in China are horrendous but she was the first to try to make a stupid "look at the foreigner" video for tiktok WHILE WE WERE DRIVING!!! I took her phone from her and shouted at her like a child. She didn't speak Mandarin so all of the Satnav apps were useless to her. She ended up having to get her 5 year old kid to translate which went about as well as you can imagine. 

The scenery along the journey was incredible but this was actually part of the problem, all mountains, steep cliffs, sharp drops and speeding cars of tourists. 

It really is a miracle I survived! 

I found an ATour hotel in Xining which is a chain hotel in China. They are all the same and are incredible value for money. I have stayed in them before and know that the beds are comfy, showers are powerful and the food not too bad. 

After the last place I was happy to have somewhere nice to stay. 

I arrived, checked in and immediately went to find food and a well deserved beer. 

Xining is obviously not a large city and so my high rise hotel did stand out a bit. It gave me some beautiful views. 

Xiahe: Labrang temple. Gansu Summer 2023

After arriving in the town of Xiahe (number 3 on the map), I checked into my hotel and then went for a wander about. I immediately did not like the place but did my best not to judge based on first impressions. Everything was brand new and in the characteristic "China trying to be old/traditional" generic style. It's a shame how gentrified and inauthentic tourist and places of interest in China have become, especially given

how far away from the big cities I was at the time. Every "old town" I have been to in recent years were all built within the last five years. It's so disappointing nowadays that I don't bother going to them anymore. I was lucky to see many of these places back when they were still interesting and actually had a slight feel of authenticity about them. 

The main attraction in this part of the province is Labrang Monastery which both Tim and Harry had previously recommended. The town was basically a car park and a load of restaurants surrounding the monastery and as so was quite expensive and a little unpleasant. 

Every restaurant was huge and designed for big groups of people traveling and eating together, yet more evidence of the recent change in domestic travel habits. It was immediately difficult to find somewhere that would allow one person to order there. 

Not loving town I decided to leave a day early and booked a car for the follow afternoon so I could visit the monastary in the next morning. 

Another hangover from COVID is that everything is cashless and most places you have to buy tickets on an app. I am yet to find one that will allow foreigners to buy tickets so there is always a bit more hassle for me before we finally work it out. In this case, I was taken to the police office and they ended up just taking some money from me and handing me a ticket. I have no faith it was at all official but it worked. Sometimes that's what you have to do in China. 

Once inside, I was shocked by how commercial the place was. The monks were selling cigarettes and charging people to pose with them for pictures. Hundreds of people were with professional photographers whilst being in "traditional clothing" so that they could take picture. As a result, it was impossible to stand anywhere without being shouted at for being in someone's picture. It was amazingly stressful and really quite unpleasant. 

Labrang monastery is the largest Buddhist temple in the country and was a complete zoo. So different from the equally busy Langmusi temple. 

Sadly this part of my trip turned out to be a complete bust from start to finish but that is the risk you take sometimes. Tim and Harry both expressed their shock and disappointment at how much it has changed. 

Hopefully the local government can step in and try to protect the area before the damage is irreversible. 

  

Grasslands and Ground Hogs: Gansu Summer 2023

After my couple of days in the monastery, I drove from Langmusi to Xiahe and Labrang Monastery. (Number 3 on the map above.)

The journey was about 4 hours and just as unpleasant as the journey to Langmusi. On the way, my driver showed me the progress on the upcoming high speed rail that should be ready in a few years. 

I was also lucky enough to have a moment of heroism! we were directly behind a taxi of monks who plowed into the bank of the truck in front of them. The whole front of their car crumpled and the monks in the back (were not wearing seatbelts) and were all sporting lovely broken noses. My driver, a few others and I managed to pull open the drivers door to get him out of the car. It was incredibly impressive and as it was on a single lane road, caused absolute chaos. We really were very lucky to be the first ones behind them as I can only imagine the traffic jam that was caused. 

My first night in Xiahe was actually in the grasslands just outside of town. Once again, the self drive craze was in full force and so all roads were very busy. 

I found a lovely cabin on a hill on which I decided to splurge for a night of peace and quiet. It turned out

to be a very good idea and was truly blissful. I was incredibly isolated and reveled in the silence. My cabin was the furthest from the main entrance and so had a completely unobstructed view of the grasslands below. I had a fantastic balcony. 

My beautiful silent isolated night was just what the doctor ordered after my hallowing few days in Langmusi and the horrendous journey to my bliss. Sadly, I only had one night in this slice of heaven but that was enough. 

The problem of the self driving crazy reappeared the next morning as I was trying to leave the cabin and head into town. As everyone now drives here, there are very few taxis and drivers and lots more traffic, so finding a car was tricky. In the end, the manager of the hotel gave me a lift in his beautiful and not too uncomfortable sidecar through the grasslands to the main road. The thinking being that I could catch a passing bus or taxi into town from there. The slight hiccup being I had to wade across a "narrow stream" which was more of a small river by the time I got there before taking on a very wobbly bridge to the main road. Once on the road I just had to hope someone came alone soon ish. 

Soon ish turned out to be an about half an hour but did eventually happen. A taxi stopped and dropped me near my hotel half an hour later. I walked into the town from the main road and quickly discovered that at lunch time just everything was packed with cars as all the hotels kicked out the tourists. 

Langmusi: Gansu Summer 2023

After my quick trip out of the country I decided to tick a few more places off the remaining China bucket list. 

Gansu has long been on my radar but from Kunming it was always just too far. From Qingdao though, it is  much more manageable journey. I flew to Lanzhou, number one on the picture above, and then found transport for the 8 hour drive to Langmusi, number 2. The road was small, bumpy, slow, unpleasant and very very long. But once we got into the mountains it was actually quite pretty. 

The town itself is more of a tourist road on the way to the monastery. There were a few restaurants, shops a supermarket and plenty of souverir spots. As a result of COVID lockdowns, self driving tours and holidays have had a bit of a surge in popularity and so has this part of the country. The upshot being, it was a very busy and bustling place to be and a usual I caused quite a distraction. A foreigner speaking Chinese in the middle of nowhere does seem to stand out. For the most part, it was fine, but I got a fair amount of angry people personally offended by my presence in their holiday destination. Business as usual. 

The first day I was feeling a little under the weather, combination of being exhausted and a drastic change in altitude, so I took it easy. It was fine, the weather was not great so a slow wander about town was fine. 

The second morning the weather was much better so  I went up to the monastery. The entry and ticket gates were packed with people but once inside it was OK. Bottle necked in places but nothing I couldn't handle. The majority of the monastery is open to the public with only a few section off limits. The monks were happy to explain anything and were generally quite chatty and friendly. To be honest they asked me more questions that I asked them but as I was in no rush, I didn't mind answering them. 

The most impressive part in my opinion was one of the "look out" spots up on a small hill. On the one side you could look over the monastery itself with some stunning and dramatic mountain scenery behind you. Just stunning!